Harmand Geoffroy Lavaux - 2020
Today’s offer comes from a bit of an under-the-radar producer, but anyone who knows these wines will recognize this as an address for some truly incredible Gevrey-Chambertins. I was first introduced to the wines of Harmand-Geoffroy with the 2015 vintage and became an instant fan, so much so I made sure to schedule a visit to the Domaine on my next trip to France.
I met Philippe Geoffroy on a cold January morning. Like many vignerons you meet for the first time, he initially forgot that he spoke English, but once he realized I knew a thing or two about his wines (and that I was there to learn more), the conversation quickly warmed up.
We tasted through the entire range that day, including a couple of older bottles. It was a real lesson in the terroirs of Gevrey-Chambertin, as the Domaine’s 9 hectares are all located within the appellation, including their obscure 1er Cru Monopole La Bossière, perched at the top of the Combe Lavaux.
As I always tell anyone getting into Burgundy, being a savvy buyer means understanding which wines in a producer’s lineup are the ones to own. That understanding doesn’t come overnight — it’s one of the things I strive to bring to my clients: taking the guesswork out of it.
As good as Philippe’s range of 1er Crus are, the Lavaux St. Jacques is the standout that takes things to another level. I learned during my visit that the .75 hectares of Lavaux are divided among six plots, with vines ranging from 45 to 95 years old. There’s a clear Grand Cru-like depth to the wine, and as Philippe explained, they treat it exactly the same as their Mazy-Chambertin — 100% destemmed, a cold soak prior to fermentation and a very hands off approach to the winemaking. The Lavaux spends additional time in barrel compared to the other 1er Crus (as does the Mazy) and sees a slightly higher proportion of new wood — roughly 50%. I recall counting eight barrels that day, meaning four were new.
To help everyone visualize the geography, I’ve included a map.
Lavaux St. Jacques sits just south of Clos St. Jacques, remember, Rousseau’s plot in Clos St. Jacques occupies the entire southern portion of that vineyard — and Lavaux directly adjoins it, sharing the same exposure and similar soils. The wine itself is powerful and densely packed, offering undeniable mineral intensity, spicy black fruit, and a sauvage character at its core. It would be almost impossible to say this is anything but Gevrey Chambertin in a blind tasting - and this wine could easily be mistaken for a Grand Cru!
When I saw the 2020 Lavaux St. Jacques available from one of my suppliers the other day, I didn’t hesitate. This is a wine I’ve sampled several times and one we originally offered back in 2022. It’s an exceptional bottle, and a bit of a no-brainer, especially since we’re offering it today at the same price as its original release. Do yourself a favor and grab a few bottles. You can thank me later.
Once again there is enough reduction to blur the nuance of what are clearly ripe dark fruit aromas. The is fine size, weight and mid-palate density to the larger-scaled flavors that terminate in a youthfully austere and almost aggressively mineral-driven finish. This is almost always the domaine's best 1er, but in 2020, the Champeaux would appear to be in the running as well.
- Burghound, 91-93 Outstanding!
