Domaine William Fevre Chablis
I’ve written about Domaine William Fevre countless times over the years and sold these wines since the early days of Vins Rare. With an array of the best vineyards in Chablis and a recent acquisition by the Rothschild family, this domaine is at the top of its game right now.
It’s not been an easy road though. In the early 2000’s, they, along with many other domaines, were hit with pre-mox, a condition that causes premature oxidation resulting in the wine aging too quickly. Fevre was one of the first to embrace the Diam cork, which proved able to reduce the risk of this premature oxidation. From what I have experienced, tasting the wines since 2007, they have clearly righted the ship.
I attended La Paulee (a celebratory wine tasting event for Burgundy wines) earlier this month in Los Angeles. Most of the wineries were featuring a selection of their 2021’s, however because quantities for many domaines were so small, there were some showing a selection of 2020’s as well. William Fevre was one of those.
Didier Seguier, Fevre’s winemaker, brought out the heavy hitters on this day - Les Clos, Valmur and Preuses. He beamed with confidence knowing his wines were firing on all cylinders. I commented that they were among the best in the room! Okay, maybe slightly behind the Lafon Perriers and Leflaive Bien Batard, but very much in the conversation. That of course brought a big smile.
I asked him if we could expect any changes under Rothchild’s ownership? He shrugged, said it was simply business as usual. But with an owner of resources and commitment to quality, Didier was excited about what the future would bring.
I’m sure this estate will reach the upper echelon of what is possible in Chablis.
Today, I’m still haunted by the flavors I tasted that day; the mineral driven intensity, the amazing freshness, the weightlessness on the palate with the mouth watering persistence that both the 2020 & 2021’s displayed. “I’m impressed” is an understatement. These are world class wines standing shoulder to shoulder with the best Chablis has to offer - Raveneau and Dauvissat included.
As I was putting together the packing list for next week’s incoming container, I see that I have the last several cases of these breathtaking 2020’s coming on this shipment. There are only a couple of cases of both the Valmur and Preuses remaining, but I can’t urge you enough that if Chablis is something you enjoy, these are Must Have Wines!
2020 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Much like the Vaulorent, the nose instantly confirms with conviction that this could be from nowhere else but Chablis with its airy array of citrus rind, sea breeze, quinine and green fruit aromas. There is excellent size, weight and richness to the broad-shouldered yet sleek flavors if not nearly the same refinement on the powerful and driving finish. This even more firmly structured effort is impressive as well though with an entirely different texture.
-Â Burghound, 92-95 Don't Miss!
2020 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Preuses
Aromas of quinine, essence of wet stone and seashore add breadth to the nose of pear, apple and anise. Once again there is fine density and intensity to the mouthcoating medium-weight flavors that flash outstanding length on the bracingly saline-suffused finale. This has already developed very good depth and more will almost surely follow. This is potentially outstanding.Â
-Â Burghound, 95
2021 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Preuses
A deft application of wood frames the beautifully elegant nose of essence of pear, green apple, acacia blossom, lemon rind and a plethora of classic Chablis scents. The dense and unusually powerful large-scaled flavors don't have the muscle of the Valmur but they're finer, all wrapped in a massively persistent and even more complex finale. As good as the Valmur is, and it's wonderful, there is just a bit more here.Â
-Â Burghound, 93-96 Don't Miss!
2021 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
This too could be from nowhere else other than Chablis with its combination of strong mineral reduction, cool citrus, shellfish and iodine. The dense, opulent and powerful large-bodied flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a sappy texture to the lemony and massively long finish. Not surprisingly for a classic Les Clos, this super effort is very much built-to-age and a wine that I would advise not touching for at least 6 to 8 years first.Â
- Burghound, 93-96 Don’t Miss!
