Article: Didier Dagueneau

Didier Dagueneau
It has been a few years since I have offered the world class wines from Domaine Didier Dagueneau. I recently had a bottle of Pur Sang and it made me remember how compelling Sauvignon Blanc can be in the hands of a truly talented winemaker.
Domaine Didier Dagueneau, the legendary Pouilly Fumé estate, is now being run by Didier's son, Louis Benjamin Dagueneau.
The Domaine's story is inseparable from its founder. Didier Dagueneau was the self declared enfant terrible of the Loire Valley, a former sidecar motorcycle racer and world champion dog sledder who returned to his native village of Saint Andelain in 1982 with one mission: to make the greatest Sauvignon Blanc in the world. He adopted biodynamic farming years before it was fashionable, slashed yields to a fraction of his neighbors', and aged his wines in oak barrels at a time when this was almost unheard of in the appellation. His outspoken criticism of the region's lax standards was controversial, but his wines made the argument for him.
Tragically, Didier was killed in an ultralight plane crash in 2008. His son Louis Benjamin stepped in and, in the view of many critics, has matched and in some cases surpassed his father's already extraordinary standard.
Today the domaine farms around 12 hectares biodynamically across Pouilly Fumé, Sancerre, and Jurançon. Yields are kept extremely low, harvests are fully manual, and the cellar work remains meticulously hands off. Native yeast fermentation, careful barrel aging, and bottling unfined and unfiltered ensure that every cuvée is a single parcel wine and a precise portrait of its terroir.
I am pleased to offer today a limited selection of the recently released 2023 vintage along with a single cuvée from 2022. Wines will arrive over the summer and be ready to ship this fall. For those looking for the ultimate Sauvignon Blanc experience, look no further than the stunning offerings from Domaine Didier Dagueneau.
I'm a bit of a fan of the Buisson Renard. At the bottom of the hill below the winery in the village of Saint-Andelain, there's a greater proportion of clay to flint, giving a broadness to the wine's shape that envelops the whole mouth. In 2022, you can smell the warmth of the vintage and experience its richness and yet it's sense of lightness. There's on appealing chew to the wine, and on the finish, a salty residue that makes you want to continue drinking. It retains acidity, line and length and provides precision. Its maker, Jean-Philippe Agisson, believes 8-10 months in stainless steel after being in barrel plus filtration gives the wine this tightening belt
- Vinous Media, 95
