Chassagne Montrachet Rouge
No one will argue that climate change giveth, and climate taketh. Some might argue over aggregates, but today, we’re just here to celebrate a climate change winner, Chassagne Montrachet Rouge ! This is a newsworthy development! In a period of 10 years, Chassagne Montrachet Rouge has gone from the ugly step-sister, a veritable mouth puckering green banana (compared to its fairer sibling), to a fully ready, luscious red Burgundy wine.
On this past trip to France, I just learned that almost 80% of Chassagne was planted to pinot some 30-years ago! In fact, most of the great Chassagne producers have some vineyards planted to pinot noir. It’s almost as if they had a premonition. With climate change now creating crazy shifts in the quality of the pinot noir, the question has gone from “how do we give these away?” to “how do we get more of this stuff?”
The wines today are ripe, round, and possess incredible depth; a delicious choice for those seeking a pleasurable red Burgundy wine.
As a bargain hunter with a nose for sniffing out a deal, I have suspected these trends and have been actively searching for Chassagne Montrachet Rouge. It’s been my feeling that some of the best values in Burgundy red wines are coming from Chassagne Montrachet. The deep clay soils found in the flatter sections of Chassagne Montrachet are ideal for growing pinot noir - couple that with the old vines, which give that sappy richness and meaty character and it's the perfect combination.
When visiting Pillot and Bernard Moreau (as top producers of Chardonnay), they are very proud of their pinot noirs. You would be hard pressed to find a better Burgundy wine from anywhere in the Cote, than these I’m offering today.
2020 Paul Pillot Chassagne Montrachet 1er Clos St Jean Rouge
A much more floral-inflected nose speaks of kirsch, anise and wild red berries. The middle weight flavors are not quite as dense, but they are markedly finer while exuding a subtle minerality on the velvety, refreshing and sneaky long finish. This is lovely and quite stylish.
- Burghound, 91
Here the nose is aromatically similar to that of the Morgeot but just a bit more elegant and this refinement is also evident on the finer textured middleweight flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the less powerful but more complex and slightly more structured finale. Lovely and fashioned in an understated style
- Burghound, 88-91
Excellent sappy minerality. You can really feel the old vine density on the palate. Beautiful complexity showing off a black fruitied profile, layers of fruit that absolutely coat the palate. Beautiful balance and length. Enjoyable now but still plenty of life ahead of it.
- Vins Rare, 92
2020 Jean Marc Pillot Chassagne Montrachet
A peppery mix features aromas of red and dark cherry that are laced with warm earth that is also picked up by the rich, succulent and rounded medium weight flavors that also conclude in an austere, rustic and moderately firm finale. This competent Chassagne villages should repay short to mid-term cellaring.
- Burghound, 88
This is aromatically similar to the Santenay but with more apparent spice nuances. The exceptionally rich, concentrated and sappy middleweight flavors brim with dry extract that buffers the moderately firm tannic spine shaping the slightly sweet and mildly rustic finale. This is quite fleshy and a wine that will very likely drink well shortly after release if that's your preference.
- Burghound, 88-91
This is very ripe but agreeably fresh with its aromas of earthy dark berry liqueur and a whiff of the sauvage. There is outstanding richness to the caressing, even suave, medium weight flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the moderately rustic finale. This has acceptably energy though I wouldn't recommend aging it for more than a few years.
- Burghound, 87-89
