2023 Henri Boillot
I’m taking Burghound’s advice on these 2023 Henri Boillot wines — every time I find them, I buy them! And it seems that every time I offer them, they sell out.
Each year after harvest, there’s a surge of wines that had previously been sold out making their way back to the market. I think vignerons take stock of their cellars, determine which reservations haven’t been picked up, and then reallocate those wines. I’ve found myself in a perfect position this year, as Boillot’s amazing 2023’s have once again become available.
The Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère is one of the top wines of the vintage. It earned 95 points from Burghound and landed on the exclusive “Don’t Miss” list — right alongside the Grand Crus. It’s worth noting that only three Premier Crus made that list, the other two being Meursault Perrières from Lafon and Roulot. Pretty elite company!
The workhorse of the lineup, and arguably one of the finest Bourgogne Chardonnays you can buy, is a wine I can hardly keep in stock (nor keep my hands off!).
I’ve enjoyed a few bottles myself over the summer and can say without hesitation that it’s fantastic.
We’ve gone through a pile of this wine this year, and from what my supplier tells me, there won’t be any more. If you missed it or didn’t buy enough, this is going to most likely be your last opportunity.
These wines will arrive in December and come with my highest recommendation. Don’t miss them!
Ripe and fresh aromas are composed by notes of both white orchard fruit and citrus confit. The sleek, vibrant and delicious middle weight flavors possess unusually good volume for a Bourgogne before concluding in a clean and dry finish. This offers solid quality for the genre.
- Burghound Outstanding Top Value
A slightly riper nose freely offers up its combination of honeysuckle, spice and a vague suggestion of the exotic. Once again there is a really lovely texture and very good density to the medium-bodied, caressing and punchy flavors that deliver superb persistence on the saline-infused, dry and impeccably well-balanced finale. This is a stunner of a Pucelles and a wine to buy.
- Burghound, 94
Clear pale lemon. Immediate class on the nose, a pure white fruit with just the right degree of sunshine to make it satisfying. Electricity on the palate, energetic fresh limestone, some ripe citrus persisting behind. Henri tells me that Pucelles came in with both the highest sugar level and the highest acidity. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 93-95 | 4 Stars
This is even cooler and more restrained as the nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of mineral reduction, green apple, spice, acacia blossom and a deft touch of wood. The gorgeously textured medium weight flavors brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract that buffers the youthfully austere and even more persistent finish. This too is very classy and a classic Clos de la Mouchère of grace and poise. If you can find it, buy it.
- Burghound, 95 Don't Miss Outstanding!
A fuller yellow here, and an extra degree of completeness, more weight and almost all the class. The oak is still at 50% new and is very well integrated. Gorgeously rich, with little fruits dancing through a meadow. Once again, I do see the magic of this. Henri was strongly advised by his father to look after “Madame de la Mouchère”. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris 5* | 94-97
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère ler Cru is another very classy wine. Vertical in feel, the 2023 is super-bright from the outset. White pepper, flowers, mint, sage and pear reinforce that impression. Readers will find an airy, deceptively mid-weight Puligny that possesses remarkable depth.
- Vinous Media, 93-95
