2023 Henri Boillot
I’m going to keep today’s offer short and to the point.
If you have been around the white Burgundy game for any length of time, then you have surely come across the wines from Henri Boillot. Up and down the hierarchy these are reference point wines. This past weekend, Allen Meadows (a.k.a. “Burghound”) released his highly anticipated reviews of the 2023 whites. As expected, the scores were strong across the board and the top domaines achieved some well deserved praise.
It should come as little surprise that Boillot’s Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère earned one of the top marks 95 points and landed on the exclusive Don’t Miss List—right alongside the Grand Crus. It’s worth noting: only three Premier Crus made the list, the other two being Meursault Perrières from Lafon and Roulot. Pretty elite company!
I first offered these wines back in February, so inventory is limited. The wines are due in later this month with a few of the big bottles and stragglers arriving later this summer.
All the wines over deliver and as Burghound suggests “if you can find it, Buy it!”
Ripe and fresh aromas are composed by notes of both white orchard fruit and citrus confit. The sleek, vibrant and delicious middle weight flavors possess unusually good volume for a Bourgogne before concluding in a clean and dry finish. This offers solid quality for the genre.
- Burghound, Outstanding Top Value
Aromas of exotic tea, tangerine peel, Granny Smith apple, anise and a plethora of floral wisps lead to super-sleek, intense and overtly mineral-driven flavors that terminate in a balanced, youthfully austere and strikingly long finale. This beautiful effort is pretty much textbook Genevrières andwarmly recommended.
- Burghound, 94
A slightly riper nose freely offers up its combination of honeysuckle, spice and a vague suggestion of the exotic. Once again there is a really lovely texture and very good density to the medium-bodied, caressing and punchy flavors that deliver superb persistence on the saline-infused, dry and impeccably well-balanced finale. This is a stunner of a Pucelles and a wine to buy.
- Burghound, 94
This is even cooler and more restrained as the nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of mineral reduction, green apple, spice, acacia blossom and a deft touch of wood. The gorgeously textured medium weight flavors brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract that buffers the youthfully austere and even more persistent finish. This too is very classy and a classic Clos de la Mouchère of grace and poise. If you can find it, buy it.
- Burghound, 95 Don't Miss Outstanding!
A fuller yellow here, and an extra degree of completeness, more weight and almost all the class. The oak is still at 50% new and is very well integrated. Gorgeously rich, with little fruits dancing through a meadow. Once again, I do see the magic of this. Henri was strongly advised by his father to look after “Madame de la Mouchère”. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 5* | 94-97
