2023 Henri Boillot
Grab your hats, it's been a whirlwind start to the 2023 Burgundy campaign! All the major critics have finally released their reports; just last week William Kelley issued the final one. The underlying theme is that it is a VERY LARGE CROP and according to some reports, the biggest ever! The remarks associated with these proclamations reference the sunny aspect of the vintage and say the terroir shines through more brightly than with previous vintages.
My 2 cents thus far… the whites are astonishingly better than could have been predicted (or, well, better than I predicted) especially given the amount of sun and heat we saw during the summer growing season. I made an initial offer in early January for the 2023 Henri Boillot Clos Moucheres but as the full picture dawned on me, as well as my miscalculation, I luckily snagged more cases before the price moved! Phew. For good measure, I’ve also added a few cases of the Les Pucelles and the always easy to drink Bourgogne Chardonnay.
If you have been collecting White Burgundy for any length of time, you know, it’s easily one of the best bourgogne produced! It consistently ranks among the best 1er cru, and having tasted most vintages going back into the 90’s, I’ll confidently say it puts a lot of Grand Crus to shame.
From appellation Bourgogne vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault along with a bit of St-Aubin and Auxey-Duresses. Mid lemon yellow, with a very engaging correctly ripe Burgundian chardonnay bouquet. Sign up for this. There is still some gas present at the moment which enforces the welcome freshness. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris 88-90 | 4 Stars
A fuller yellow here, and an extra degree of completeness, more weight and almost all the class. The oak is still at 50% new and is very well integrated. Gorgeously rich, with little fruits dancing through a meadow. Once again, I do see the magic of this. Henri was strongly advised by his father to look after “Madame de la Mouchère”. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 5* | 94-97
Clear pale lemon. Immediate class on the nose, a pure white fruit with just the right degree of sunshine to make it satisfying. Electricity on the palate, energetic fresh limestone, some ripe citrus persisting behind. Henri tells me that Pucelles came in with both the highest sugar level and the highest acidity. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris 93-95 | 4 Stars
