2023 Domaine Michel Niellon
We kicked off our 2023 White Burgundy campaign late last year, and Michel Niellon was one of the first domaines we offered—and naturally, one of the first to sell out.
Since then, I’ve been checking in with my suppliers every month hoping for more, and yesterday I finally got the confirmation. Two of my personal favorites are back: Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru “Champs Gains” and Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru “Clos de la Truffière” Not only couldn’t I believe he was able to confirm two fo the best wines in the lineup, both were at the same sharp pricing as our initial release.
Since November, the critics have weighed in. As expected, the reviews are outstanding and 2023 again captures everything we love about Niellon. These are wines that are less about power and more about focus and persistence. If you have not checked in on these wines lately, this is an ideal opportunity. This stock will be arriving in November.
A slightly fresher and more expressive nose presents its array of cool pear, apple, citrus and a broader range of floral elements. The slightly more concentrated middle weight flavors possess a lovely texture while terminating in a clean, bright, notably dry and solidly persistent finale. I like the balance and this is compact enough to warrant at least a few years of keeping and it should repay up to a decade of it.
- Burghound, 91 Outstanding!
Mid lemon yellow, a discreet bouquet with a little white fruit and perhaps less gunflint than Maltroie. More apple coming out. This is lovely on the palate, some riper flavours coming out behind, with a little fresh apricot, softer and easy going as the clay kicks in. Lovely early. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 92
Planted just after the First World War. Still in good form without offering high degrees. 12.8% in 2023. A very pale lemon colour. The nose is extremely discreet, but with a sense that there is plenty behind. On the palate this has such a fine backbone, and the fruit extends magically through to a long fine finish, perfect poise and balance. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 94
Smoky aromas include those of various white-fleshed fruit, citrus rind, crushed fennel and pretty floral top notes. Once again there is excellent punch to the acceptably concentrated flavors that nonetheless display focused power on the moderately austere, clean, very dry and beautifully balanced finale. This won't wow you with its size and weight but it's harmonious and very backward and a wine that should amply repay extended keeping, indeed it's going to need at least a few years first.
- Burghound, 92 Outstanding!
