2023 Domaine Faiveley - First Offer

With a major trade tasting happening this week in London, we are seeing all the major critics finalizing their reports on the 2023 vintage. A flood has come this weekend, Burghound, Neal Martin, Jasper Morris and I expect William Kelly one day this week.

2023 is a vintage that will largely be noted for its size, which is always a welcome in Burgundy. Vignerons I met with last year were grinning from ear to ear, as most had not seen this sort of volume since 2005, and even then it wasn’t this much. The key to the vintage was managing the crop size, as many vignerons did an extensive green harvests (cutting green grapes before they’d had a chance to ripen) and some even did it twice! Volumes were in most cases at or close to the legal limits. Another key was being able to keep the fruit cool prior to the start of the fermentation as daytime temperatures during harvest were well into the 90’s! Those equipped with today’s modern equipment put it to good use in controlling the fermentation temperatures. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that many of the top names turned out fantastic wine!

There is not a more beautiful nor modern facility in all of Burgundy than what Erwan Faiveley has created in Nuits St George. If you have ever visited, you know what I’m talking about. I have been selling Faiveley for as long as I can remember - the old school wines of the previous generation have given way to a sleeker, more giving style that doesn’t require 3 decades plus to reveal the magic of their splendid terroir. With 120 hectares of vines, Faiveley is one of largest producers - they make wine from just about every village. What the savvy Burgundy buyer learns with time is which wines in the lineup are the wines to own.

I have made a small selection of what I would describe as my favorites in the lineup. If there is one you don’t see, but in which you are interested, shoot me an email and I’ll see what I can do. Right now, everything is available, including the Musigny! These wines will be bottled at varying times and likely all completed and available to ship by end of 2025.

Moderate reduction renders an evaluation of the nose impossible. The medium weight flavors possess a slightly finer mouthfeel while exuding an almost palpable minerality that adds a sense of lift to the lightly tangy if impressively long finale. Note that my projected range assumes that the tanginess is likely due to a high level of gas and thus will be eliminated once the wine is prepared for the bottling.

- Burghound, 90-93

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers ler Cru has an understated, tertiary nose with a touch of smoke filtering through the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins and a keen line of acidity. It's taut and fresh with plenty of mineralité and tension on the finish. This is a very competent and quite delicious Cazetiers.

- Neal Martin, 92-94

One of the darker and more concentrated colours. Impressive density too on the nose. This has moved across to the raspberry side, impeccable density, with refreshing minerals to finish. Picked ripe but at the right time. Serious crop thinning here has paid off. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2024.

- Jasper Morris, 5* | 94-96

Enough wood to merit mentioning is present on the nose of spicy and ripe red and dark currant along with suggestions of earth and the sauvage. I very much like the mouthfeel of the solidly voluminous flavors that also exude a borderline palpable minerality on the compact, backward and built-to-age finale. This will need to add depth with time in bottle so at least some keeping is advised.

- Burghound, 91-93

Medium deep purple. No great depth, An attractive softer strawberry, both on nose and on the palate. Very slightly furry tannins afterwards. Balanced fruit throughout and persistent. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Nov 2024.

- Jasper Morris, 91-93

Firm reduction completely dominates the fruit today. More interesting are the refined and generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors that flash both good power and a more subtle minerality on the balanced and equally austere finale that, like several wines in the range, would benefit from developing better depth.

- Burghound, 91-94

This is more serious, along with the Cazetiers, the Mazis-Chambertin has the hoped for density. An attractive raspberry fruit lifts the bouquet, and is both sensual and sinewy on the palate. While it has not fully eaten its oak yet, this Mazis is surely heading in the right direction. A fine result. Drink from 2032-2043. Tasted Nov 2024.

- Jasper Morris, 95-97

Moderate wood influence suffuses the cool, airy and pretty peppery and spicy aromas of rose petal, red currant and wet stone. The gorgeously textured, even lilting, middle weight flavors ooze minerality on the strikingly long and youthfully austere finale that could again use more depth. Even so, this is pretty much textbook Latricières.

- Burghound, 92-94

Medium garnet to crimson. Lighter on the nose as well. The bouquet has roses and raspberries, quite elegant, not massive but with finesse, though not the most concentrated. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2024.

- Jasper Morris, 93-95