2023 Bitouzet Prieur
One of the most noteworthy developments I’ve witnessed over the last 30 years of visiting the cellars of Burgundy is the impact the new generation has had on many of the old-school domaines - Bitouzet-Prieur is a shining example. The Bitouzet family established themselves in Volnay in the early 1800s, and by the mid-19th century were already gaining recognition for the quality of their wines. The modern foundation of the estate was laid when Vincent Bitouzet married Annie Prieur in the mid-20th century, bringing prized Meursault holdings into the already impressive Volnay lineup. Today, their son François Bitouzet represents the sixth generation at the helm—and I would argue he’s elevated the domaine to a level probably only dreamed about by previous generations.
Over the last 10 or so years, I’ve had the pleasure of visiting the domaine numerous times. The new facility in Meursault is a winemaker’s dream. Imagine having a blank check, all the space you need, and only your imagination to design the perfect winery, this is exactly what François Bitouzet has done. The energy he brings to both the cellar and the vineyards is undeniable. His commitment to precision not only in winemaking but his work in the vineyards as 2023 marks the first vintage in which the wines are certified organic. It’s his quiet confidence, and his thoughtful integration of tradition with modern sensibility have reshaped the estate. Under his leadership, Bitouzet-Prieur has become a serious source for wines in both colors.
Great wine in Burgundy starts in the vineyards, and if you know the Bitouzet lineup, it’s hard for your eyes not to light up when talking about two of the best vineyards in Meursault—Charmes and Perrières. The Meursault Charmes is the more generous of the two; its mouth-coating, oily texture is quite dense. But as with all great wines, it’s that razor-sharp precision that gives it lift and energy, leading to a finish that seems to go on and on. Meursault Perrières is, without a doubt, the top vineyard in Meursault and the top wine in the Bitouzet cellar. Its precise, chiseled minerality is everything fine white Burgundy is supposed to be. It’s a wine that, year in and year out, rivals most Grand Crus—and the 2023 is another excellent example.
These are both wines Not To Be Missed!
A notably more elegant nose of perfumed floral elements, especially acacia and gardenia, add breadth to the aromas of essence of pear and spice. I very much like the sense of underlying tension running through the solidly concentrated medium weight flavors that exude a subtle bead of minerality on the unusually powerful finish that displays excellent length. One to consider.
- Burghound, 92
An even mid lemon yellow. The bouquet suggests a robust wine to follow, though less fruit up front. At the moment the bouquet has a temporary suggestion of something slightly rubbery which will come out with fining. Plenty going on, good structure, just the detail to refine. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 90-93
The 2023 Meursault Les Charmes ler Cru presents aromas of popcorn, hazelnut and smoke, not quite as sophisticated as the Santenots but far off. The palate is taut and fresh, with a veneer of wood that will integrate by the time of bottling. Richer in style, though not exotic, it offers a persistent peppery finish. Give this three or four years in bottle.
- Vinous Media / Neal Martin, 91-93
A completely different aromatic profile presents notes of mineral reduction, smoked apple, petrol and a lovely array of spice nuances, especially anise. The round and relatively generously proportioned flavors are at once caressing yet powerful, all wrapped in an intensely stony, youthfully austere and strikingly long finale. The Bitouzet Perrières is virtually always first-rate and the 2023 version is no exception.
- Burghound, 93
A fuller lemon yellow and the bouquet is making much more of a statement than the Charmes. A complex range of fruits, a little greengage alongside the pear and fresh peach, an adequate thread of acidity and excellent persistence. Even a little tannin to add grip. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 92-94
