2023 Bitouzet Prieur
If you haven’t received the memo yet, you may want to start paying attention because the 2023 Bitouzet Prieur is here and the wines have never been better.
Bitouzet Prieur, in what seems like a far distant past, may have been called an underachiever as a producer. For years, they made average wines at best, wasting an impressive set of vineyards in both Volnay and Meursault; Clos Chenes, Caillerets, Charmes & Perrieres to name a few.
A lot has changed! And to help us understand exactly what had changed, we met with Francois Bitouzet who guided us through the developments, from vineyard to winery, since taking over for his parents in 2012.
It’s almost cliche, but if you're part of the younger generation taking over, you’d sooner drown in a vat of RoundUp than spray anything of the sort on your crops. So needless to say, Francois Bitouzet immediately shifted to organic farming, and though it took a few years, a big change in the quality of the fruit is now evident.
The biggest change has come in the way of the new, awe-inspiring winery with everything you could want implemented. On top of the gravity fed, custom sized fermentation tanks and temperature controls, it comes with ample
space to work. This facility and these tools have allowed Francois to more precisely ferment and move the wines at their own pace, rather than be forced to move them due to the constrained space of their previous Volnay facility.
The quality of the wines here has been on a straight up trajectory - they are precise, focused wines, which are now representative of their incredible terroir. When you consider the prices at which they sell, it’s an easy choice for even the most discerning Burgundy collector.
Another intense purple colour. The bouquet has been knocked back a bit by a recent sulphur addition. No doubting the balanced intensity of the fruit, a correct degree of ripeness, the finish tightened up by the recent racking and treatments, but a wealth of classy dark berry fruit stretching out into a long finish. Needs more elevage to finish getting where it is going. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 91-93
The 2023 Volnay Clos des Chênes ler Cru is usually the standout amongst Bitouzet-Prieur's Premier Crus, and this is no different. Quite complex on the nose, it delivers a mélange of red and black fruit, iodine and incense, slightly richer than the 2022 yet still very well focused. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins and fine grip. Slightly bitter and sapid, it attenuates only slightly on the finish. Patience will be required.
- Vinous / Neal Martin, 91-93
An even mid lemon yellow. The bouquet suggests a robust wine to follow, though less fruit up front. At the moment the bouquet has a temporary suggestion of something slightly rubbery which will come out with fining. Plenty going on, good structure, just the detail to refine. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 90-93
The 2023 Meursault Les Charmes ler Cru presents aromas of popcorn, hazelnut and smoke, not quite as sophisticated as the Santenots but far off. The palate is taut and fresh, with a veneer of wood that will integrate by the time of bottling. Richer in style, though not exotic, it offers a persistent peppery finish. Give this three or four years in bottle.
- Vinous Media / Neal Martin, 91-93
A fuller lemon yellow and the bouquet is making much more of a statement than the Charmes. A complex range of fruits, a little greengage alongside the pear and fresh peach, an adequate thread of acidity and excellent persistence. Even a little tannin to add grip. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.
- Jasper Morris, 92-94
The 2023 Meursault Les Perrières ler Cru is a step up from the 2022 with more complexity and nuance on the nose, featuring crushed stone and pressed white flower scents. The palate is well balanced with lime and tangerine notes on entry. It may have lower acidity thar vintages due to the growing season, with gentle grip and moderate length. Perhaps the Les Charmes offers a bit more persistence? This is a decent Les Perrières, albeit not from the top drawer.
- Vinous/ Neal Martin, 91-93
