2022 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore
Today, we bring a world class wine at a fraction of the $310 suggested retail price.
You would think that a legendary wine such as Ornellaia had been in existence for generations, yet the first vintage was produced in 1985. Since that time, Ornellaia has firmly asserted itself as one of Italy’s iconic wines. This Bordeaux blend exemplifies the idea of power without weight. The harmony and balance that Orneallaia offers is only matched by a handful of wines throughout the entire world.
STORY
Marchese Lodovico Antinori of the Antinori family established Tenuta dell' Ornellaia with the help of winemaker Tibor Gál. Up to that point, it had been one of Italy's most historic negociant firms.
Next door to Tenuta San Guido is the producer of Sassicaia, a wine considered the high water mark of wines from Tuscany. It’s been whispered that Ornellaia is Antinori's response to his cousin Nicolò Incisa's Sassicaia. Oh yeah, and then there is also his older brother Piero Antinori's Solaia. This competition creates the absolute most pleasurable experiences for wine in the world! In that, they have all succeeded.
The vineyards of the estate were planted in 1981, producing the first vintage in 1985. A modern winery was built in 1987, and Bellaria, a second 56-hectare (140-acre) property situated north of Bolgheri was later added.
Robert Mondavi Winery took a minority interest in the estate in November 1999, and were full owners by 2002, while initiating a partnership with the Frescobaldi family.
In April 2005, Frescobaldi bought the remaining 50% shares of Ornellaia from Constellation Brands after their acquisition of Mondavi holdings, coming to own the whole estate. Axel Heinz is the current winemaker with Michel Rolland, involved with the estate since its beginning, is retained as consultant oenologist.
This wine is world class in every way.
The 2022 Ornellaia is a terrific wine for the year. Dark red-toned fruit, mocha, new leather, licorice and spice all take shape in a mid-weight, pliant Ornellaia that is quite alluring, even in the early going. The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, unusual for the elevated presence of Petit Verdot, which did better than Franc in 2022. The higher percentage of Petit Verdot comes through in the wine's dark-leaning personality and also in the quality of tannins. More than anything else, the 2022 is a reminder of how important a tool blending is, especially in challenging years. I can't wait to see how this ages. The 2022 Ornellaia is clearly among the most successful wines of the vintage.
- Vinous/Galloni, 96
Tasted a few months after it was bottled, the Ornellaia 2022 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia will be coming to market in March 2025. The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. The wine sees 18 months of aging with up to 70% new oak, but the trick, proprietor Lamberto Frescobaldi tells me, is drawing from a large group of coopers with different toast levels and forests. "I don't want to make a wine of any one tonnellerie," he says. The oak element is crucial to the identity of this wine that reveals dark fruit, blackberry, sweet spice and cinnamon. Most of the vines were planted in the 1980s, and the average age of the plants is over 20 years old. Fruit comes from many parcels, including Bellaria, Bellaria Nuova, Bellaria Alta, Pero, Fosso, Vigna Vecchia and Stallina. Indeed, some 80 wines are made before final blending. The 2022 vintage will be remembered for its full-bodied appeal, concentrated fruit and generous oak renderings. Petit Verdot plays a slightly larger role in this vintage and was one of the surprise hits of 2022. It serves to elongate the wine and adds to its length. The wine's abundant fruit weight cedes to elegantly integrated tannins. This vintage will appeal to die-hard Ornellaia enthusiasts.
- Wine Advocate, 97
A Mediterranean-style wine. Stunning elegance on the nose, with vibrant dried eucalyptus leaves, flowers, restrained brambleberries and hints of black cherries, dried bananas, milk chocolate, cloves and graphite. The palate is full-bodied with elegant tannins and a touch of dust. It’s savory and well packed, with integrated, brilliant freshness and a ripe, fruity finish with a toasty aftertaste of blond tobacco. Try from 2026.
- James Suckling, 97
