2008 Francois Bedel
I’m excited to share a Champagne I first came across almost two years ago: the 2008 Françoise Bedel Âme de la Terre Extra Brut. As I always do when I’m in France, I bought a couple of cases from my favorite shop in Épernay. I can’t make it everywhere, so I ask the owner to put together a selection of the best grower bottlings on the shelf. It’s my way of bumping into things that might be in my blind spot. It’s how I first discovered Jérôme Prévost back in 2011.
About halfway through that first case, I opened the bottle from Bedel. I still remember popping the cork, and taking the first sip. The wine stopped me cold. It had depth, lift, and a freshness that makes my mouth water thinking about it. It was an amazing wine that I knew nothing about, but in that moment I realized I needed to find out more about this house.
Françoise Bedel’s story begins in 1979, when she took over her family’s estate in Crouttes-sur-Marne, located on the western edge of the Marne Valley. In the early 1990s she made the bold move to convert fully to biodynamic farming, long before it became fashionable. Everything she does — from working the soils, to choosing harvest dates, to when to bottle the wine, is grounded in bringing the vineyards to full vitality and letting the terroir fully express itself. The result is Champagne with both energy and finesse, wines that are amazingly complex, but remain remarkably pure and precise.
The 2008 Âme de la Terre Extra Brut captures that mindset perfectly. The blend is 50 percent Chardonnay, 30 percent Pinot Noir, and 20 percent Pinot Meunier, all from mature vines rooted in clay over chalky limestone. Fermentation relies on natural yeasts and takes place partly in stainless steel and partly in French oak. A portion of the wine goes through malolactic fermentation, giving a gentle roundness without dulling the vintage’s signature cut. After that, it spent fourteen years on the lees before disgorgement and was finished with 3.45 grams per liter of dosage. The balance is striking: purity first, with complexity folded in rather than forced.
In the glass, it’s a thrilling wine. The nose moves from ripe yellow fruit to a quiet salinity, fresh dough, and a whisper of brioche. The palate is vinous and deep, with power held neatly in check by a firm, refined line of acidity. Honey, gingerbread, and a strong mineral core carry through a long, resonant finish. It’s the kind of Champagne that stays with you, and one I’m genuinely excited to offer.
This is an absolutely stunning Champagne from one of the very best vintages the region has ever seen. 2008 Champagnes have largely disappeared from the market. Do yourself a favor and pick up some of this. At $125 it's an absolute bargain!
