2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

Piuze showed me his 2012 Chablis Bougros after the superb corresponding Blanchots with apologies for the challenge that might pose, but believing that it respected the character of the two wines, and indeed this one is both rich and assertive. Geranium and snapped green twig pungently challenge me from the glass, and despite its modest 12.5% alcohol this exhibits breath and a certain sense of gravity uncommon in the context of the Piuze 2012 collection, while at the same time preserving fascinating, tart-edged juiciness of salt-tinged lime and green tomato. It finishes with impressive sheer persistence if not finesse or mystery. “Look,” notes the author, “the vines don’t suffer on this deep-soiled plateau and probably the roots do not have to go as deep as in the Cote de Bouqueyreaux” – or indeed in other grand cru sectors. Plan to enjoy this Bougros by 2020. WA 90-91