Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 ($95) Bright golden-orange color. Deeply pitched but pure aromas of spices, smoked meat and flint. Supersweet, thick and powerful, conveying a chewy impression of soil without coming across as rough-edged or phenolic. This has VT richness. Fine acidity and a powerful spice character give shape and lift to this unctuous, silky wine. Humbrecht says the r.s. here is less than 50 grams per liter. 93 points
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