Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 ($95; close to VT in style; from a much smaller crop than the 2004, with more botrytis) Knockout nose combines peach nectar, apricot and subtle smoky, nutty nances. Densely packed, highly concentrated and solidly structured, with a distinct botrytis influence to the tangy apricot, honey and spice flavors and a soil-specific element of iodine. The wine's pronounced sweetness (about 30 g/l r.s.) is leavened by firm flinty minerality, solid structure and high alcohol (just over 15%), and the finish is strikingly long and fresh. The flavors here are much purer and more fruit-driven than those of the earthier '04. 92 points
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