2017 Domaine Clos des Rocs Pouilly Loche Clos des Rocs Monopole

If you’ve never heard of Pouilly-Loché, it makes perfect sense. It is the smallest appellation of the Maconnais (sub-region in southern Burgundy) as it barely covers 32 hectares(roughly 79 acres)of which nearly 30% belongs to Clos des Rocs. N

o estate-bottled wine from the appellation has appeared in the U.S. in the recent past yet under the deft hand of uber-talented Olivier Giroux, it won’t be long before his star shines beyond his immediate environs. He’ll be the first to tell you it’s not about him. It’s the soils, characterized by iron-rich clay and limestone, often with up to a foot of dense limestone pebbles dispersed on the surface. The resulting wines are more focused and leaner than their counterparts in neighboring Pouilly Fuisse. They carry a hint of earth and a rich mineral character with enough fruit density to compliment the remarkable structural elements. I hear what you’re thinking. Sounds like these wines might closely resemble their pricey relatives from further north? You know, cousins Puligny and Chassagne-Montrachet! Well, you are correct. However, Clos des Rocs will not hide in the shadows of premier cru white burgundy as it delivers comparable quality at a third of the price.  

The estate comprises 8.6 hectares of vines across seven parcels, principally in Pouilly-Loché. No chemical products are used in the vineyard and Olivier is committed to organic processes from start to finish. All grapes are manually harvested before a long pressing, followed by alcoholic fermentation using only indigenous yeasts and élévage varies by cuvée but always in a combination of large format oak barrels and stainless-steel tanks.  

 Our featured wine, the Pouilly-Loché Clos des Rocs Monopole 2017, comes from the main asset of the domaine, an 

enclosed 3 hectare parcel located adjacent to the winery. The vines are 70 years old with an eastern exposure and it produces the most complete wine of the domaine and now serves as the essential reference point for this very special place. Right out of the gate, this 2017 flashes clear aromas of apple blossom and nectar circled by a beam of minty lemon. As it begins to unwind, notes of limestone terroir give way to sweeping hints of white truffle and crème brulée. The mineral driven core persists significantly in the wine’s polished texture and astounding depth, making its own compelling case for premier cru recognition. Although it’s drinking beautifully right now and will pair perfectly with a wide array of Chardonnay appropriate fare, this is also one you can tuck away.  

Im really glad that I re-tasted this wine the other day.  This is an exceptional Chardonnay that offers  tremendous value for its category.  Considering this stock arrived Pre Tarriff its at a 25% discount compared to what is currently in the market.  Buy a few more than you normally would because if you can keep your hands off it its really going to be good in a few more years!  Highly recommended!