2012 Hugues Godme Champs St Martin

Hugues Godmé aged his 2012 pure pinot noir bottling from the vineyard of Saint Martin for fully eight years sur latte prior to its disgorgement in 2021. The vins clairs for this bottling are barrel-fermented and aged in older casks for one year prior to bottling up for secondary fermentation and the wine is finished non-dosé. The bouquet is exceptional in its refinement and depth, wafting from the glass in a blend of apple, white peach, pâtissière, chalky soil tones, dried flowers and just a hint of oak. On the palate the wine is brisk, full-bodied and complex, with lovely depth at the core, excellent mineral drive and cut, very refined mousse and a long, complex and still quite snappy finish. Even though this is already eleven years of age, the wine remains fairly youthful and with no dosage, could still do with a few more years in the cellar to more properly soften up its girdle of acidity. For fans of non-dosé wines, this is already very, very tasty. For the rest of us, give it three or four more years in the cellar to let those acids relax just a bit more. The wine itself is absolutely stellar! 2023-2060. John Gilman 94