2009 Domaine des Terres Dorees (Jean-Paul Brun) Morgon

Monsieur Brun’s 2009 Morgon is another celestial example of the vintage. The
simply superb bouquet offers up scents of red and black cherries, raw cocoa,
pomegranate, plenty of granite soil tones and a hint of nuttiness in the upper register. On
the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still quite primary, with excellent mid-palate
depth, tangy acids, moderate tannins and great length and grip on the utterly seamless and
still very young finish. Structurally, one could drink this wine out of the blocks, but it
would be an absolute waste to start pulling corks on this brilliant bottle of Morgon before
it has had a chance to really blossom and unlock its secondary and tertiary elements. A
superb Morgon. 2015-2040+.  95.  View from the Cellar - John Gilman



From the high-altitude Grand Cras section of its appellation (though that is not mentioned on the label), Brun's 2009 Morgon is alluringly scented with violet, gentian, roasted game, and a veritable basketful of black raspberries. Managing to seem both substantial and polished yet also refreshing and invigorating, its profusion of mineral salt, meat stock, and - this literally - fine-grained tannin make for fascination and inevitable versatility at table, and an excellent value that should be worth following for a half dozen years. WA 91