The 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Clos des Thorins smells of ripe boysenberry and blackberry confiture with a suggestion of their spirituous counterparts, as well as of brown spices and resin reinforced if not engendered by toasty new wood. Sweet fruit and firm, slightly grainy texture are not entirely resolved on the palate, and this is definitely one of those Chateau des Jacques bottlings that needs to – in director de Castelnau’s familiar expression – “digest its wood.” As it takes on air, a positive, clean sense of meatiness emerges as well. The wine will certainly be worth following for several years. WA 88-89+
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