Champagne Clandestin Les Semblables Austral - R19

The alter ego of Boréal is the NV Brut Nature Les Semblables (Austral), derived from south-facing vineyards and, in this case, from the 2019 vintage. Delivering aromas of pear, crisp stone fruit, clear honey and freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and pillowy, with a richer, more vinous personality and a long, saline finish. Of course, as I remarked to Doussot, the two alter egos would surely make an extremely complementary blend, even if that would fly in the face of the maison's Burgundian philosophy.  William Kelley 93

Australe comes from south-facing vineyards of Pinot Noir in the commune of Buxières-sur-Acre. Fermented and aged in French oak barrels before aging sur latte for 15 months, Les Semblables Australe is disgorged and finished without any dosage.

Originally from Beaune, Benoît Doussot arrived in Champagne in 2015 after a stint at Domaine Fichet in Meursault. Working at Vouette & Sorbée, he perceived that organic growers were selling their fruit to big houses and the local cooperatives for no premium, and he set out to change that. Today, Doussot works with some 12 hectares of vines, farmed by nine different vignerons, divided among 18 parcels. In sourcing, he's looking for the second terrace of Kimmeridgian limestone; and all his cuvées are derived from a single vintage, a single grape variety and this same terrace, differentiated by their different expositions. Vinification is in large 500- and 600-liter oak barrels, with comparatively long élevage of vins clairs on the lees; and tirage is with relatively low pressure, favoring a more vinous profile. These are high quality, elegant Champagnes with a Burgundian accent, with the more northerly facing sites delivering more chiseled wines and their southerly facing sites more plenitude