2018 J M Seleque Soliste Pinot Noir Extra Brut

Disgorged this year with two grams per liter dosage, the 2018 Extra-Brut Soliste Pinot Noir Pierry 1er Cru Les Gayères reveals aromas of crisp stone fruit, grilled peaches, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, vinous and suave, it's fine-boned and elegant, with a layered core of fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish. Its finesse and controlled power in this vintage demonstrate the fruits of Sélèque's thoughtful farming.  William Kelley 95

William Kelley |  Wine Advocate :As I've written before, Jean-Marc Sélèque is one of Champagne's most exciting and dynamic young producers. Based in Pierry in the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay, Sélèque returned to the family domaine in 2008 and immediately stopped the use of herbicides; but he dates his realization that the raw materials for greatness are to be found in agronomy and not in the cellar to 2012. Farming is essentially organic, with some biodynamic practices, with the soils cultivated mechanically (in some instances, by horse) and canopies hedged higher than the average for additional shade and photosynthesis. Winter and intra-row cover crops mitigate erosion and preserve moisture in the soil. In the winery, much of the production is vinified in wood, without fining or filtration, and Sélèque favors native fermentations and doesn't encourage or discourage malolactic. As his viticultural progress bears dividends, these wines go from strength to strength, and I find myself more and more impressed with every passing release. Now, a large underground and overground extension to his winery means Sélèque has the space and materials to be able to push his projects even further. Pierry enjoyed considerable historical celebrity, and thanks to Sélèque, it seems more than likely to regain it. Everything here comes recommended, and I warmly encourage readers to acquaint themselves with these wines.

Published: Dec 14, 2023