2018 Conterno-Nervi Gattinara Vigna Valferana

As all Nebbiolo lovers know well, this mighty Piedmont grape is especially sensitive to place. That's the main takeaway with the Conterno Nervi 2018 Gattinara Vigna Valferana. This is a west-facing vineyard at 300 to 350 meters in altitude that is characterized by volcanic soils and slightly cooler conditions, resulting in an etched and very focused expression of Nebbiolo (as opposed to Molsino that tends to be open-knit and more concentrated). Valferana is tightly chiseled and crisp, with blue flower, sour cherry, tobacco smoke, underbrush and candied orange peel. The wine offers a complete picture of the grape from Gattinara with some extra tannic edge to carry it through the years.  Wine Advocate 95