Readers with the requisite disposable income will have a fun time comparing the 1996 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V., disgorged last year, with its immediate predecessor, the 1995. Offering up complex aromas of confit orange, coffee, toasted notes and honeycomb, it's full-bodied, fleshy and seamless, with excellent concentration, nicely integrated acids and a long, saline finish. William Kelley 95
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