2014 Billaud Simon Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu

This is the first wine in the range to display any appreciable reduction and while it's not strong, it is enough to push the underlying fruit to the background. The medium-bodied flavors are tightly coiled with terrific energy that is so mineral-driven that the bone dry finish is like sucking on tiny stones. This is not the most refined wine here but it is the most intense.  Burghound 91-94

(from very old vines that yielded just 35 hectoliters per hectare): Very pale yellow. High-pitched aromas of lemon, crushed rock, anise and white pepper. Tactile and brisk on the palate, boasting lovely inner-mouth energy and lift to the flavors of lemon, ginger and quinine. The wine's restrained sweetness perfectly buffered by firm minerality. Vibrant, sharply delineated wine with excellent spicy, perfumed length. (Note that Billaud-Simon will no longer offer a Mont de Milieu Vieille Vigne cuvée.)

Vinous/Steve Tanzer 91-93