2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Piuze points out in introducing his 2012 Chablis Les Clos that on past occasions he has never shown the wine from this celebrated site last in his line-up; whereas this year he thinks it has earned that position. I would not disagree, and can well understand why – along among Piuze’s current collection – this wine was to be bottled at some as yet undetermined date not in July. Lusciously juicy, bright pink and white grapefruit are liberally laced with chalk, alkali and saliva-drawing salt on an impressively dense and (for now) firm palate. While this lacks the lift, intricacy or transparency exhibited by its counterpart from Blanchots, it finishes with implacable grip as well as energy and mouthwatering refreshment. Sourced from a single grower but two parcels – one near Blanchots and one up by Valmur, whose fruit was crushed together – like the corresponding Blanchots, this benefitted from extended stay on lees that reflected substantial borrowing other musts. But while “benefitted” is indeed the right word, given how brilliantly both wines have succeeded, their author reports, “We were scared right until the end that there might be reduction problems” or other undesirable consequences. Wine Adovact 92-93+