2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots

From two producers and selected rows in three disparate parcels, Piuze’s 2012 Chablis Blanchots smells of iris and gentian wafted on ocean breeze. Silken-textured, strikingly buoyant (at a mere 12.3% alcohol, no wonder!) and infectiously juicy in a fashion too-seldom evident among grand cru Chablis, its citrus and pale pit fruits are tinged with salty-sweet, saliva-inducing savor of shrimp shell reduction, leading to a mouthwateringly long and dazzlingly interactive finishing colloquy of flower, fruit and mineral. The sense of clarity – notable, given the supplemental lees this was fed – of finesse and near-kaleidoscopic complexity on exhibit here should remain exciting through at least 2024 (and, I am hopeful, beyond). Wine Advocat 94-95